Fromm Winery Graubunden Selvenen Pinot Noir
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For five generations, the Fromm family has dedicated itself to the cultivation of pinot noir in the high mountain terrain of Graubunden, where Switzerland touches Austria and Alto Adige. The valley floor sits at 550 meters (1,800 feet) above sea level; vineyards climb from there. Just 2% of Swiss wine makes it out of the country, due in part to what Jancis Robinson calls โsome of the worldโs prettier and more inconvenient vineyardsโ and in part to a deep domestic appreciation for the exceptional quality produced in those parcels. As rare as it is to find these wines in the U.S., it is even more extraordinary to taste those from the hand of legendary vintner Georg Fromm. 2019 marked his 50th harvest. Though not all of his work with pinot noir has been in the home vineyards of Malans, decades of globe-trotting experience has given him rare perspective on his mountain terroir. Of the Frommsโ 7 hectares, 5 are a handful of historic crus. Each is distinguished by the varying compositions of their soils, slight differences in exposition, hours of sunlight and microclimatic influences โ especially the warming Alpine wind known as Fohn. Of decisive impact are a mix of Burgundian and old Swiss pinot clones that Georg, and now his nephew, Walter, and son, Marco, work with. They offer a distinct palate of flavors, aromas, and textures as well as a time-tested hedge against climate change. Their farming has been certified organic by Bio-Suisse since 2015. Winemaking focuses on spontaneous fermentation in open tanks, with long aging in neutral wood. The results are lustrous pinot noirs of arresting aromatic complexity, finely polished tannins, balanced alcohol, and unmistakable Alpine freshness